Till now the whole road trip was amazing. Every day we managed to reach new places and be totally surprised by our findings. But there was one thing of which I was longing for and I kept missing it, the beaches of Greece. I was dreaming to lose myself once again in the olive tree orchards, to walk on the coastline paths along the thorny bushes and find the secluded place where I could have a tete-a-tete with my beloved sea.
Our quest to find a place as close as possible to the Blue Cave took us to Lustica Peninsula. Placed at the entrance of Kotor Bay, it has on one side the Adriatic Sea and on the other the bay of Kotor. The hungry teeth of mass tourism did not take a good bite of this peninsula yet, mostly because of the shortage of water sources and not a very good supply of electricity.
Sadly for the still unspoiled nature of Lustica, the bulldozers were already put at work on the west side and what appeared to be a new resort was emerging slowly but surely. I loved that limestone peninsula covered with pine trees and thorny bushes crossed by numerous paths which were taking you to all the corners of Lustica passing through olive tree orchards towards the sea. When we reach Mirista I knew that Lustica is the place I was looking for…
From Mirista beach, we took the boat to the Blue Caves, we went there for the caves in the first place. The trip cost 6 euros per person and involved diving in the cave blue waters, probably the most electric blue I ever saw. I do not know how deep it was, and I did not want to find out, but with all my fear for the deep waters, I still had a swim. Considering the fact that I am not a good swimmer this was huge for me. After the quick glimpse to the underworld, the boat took us to visit a fort on a small island placed at the entrance of the Bay of Kotor, Lastovica Island.
The walls of the fortress were blackened by the humidity, with fig trees penetrating their roots through the cracks in the walls.
The agave was having tall flowering stems giving the impression of a strange kind of forest covering the fortress`s walls.
Mamula Fort, Lastavica Island, Montenegro
Few lost trees ended there probably by the hands of nature were growing up on the walls and to me, this trees were seeming that they were looking towards the horizon, towards liberty.
The only inhabitants of this deserted fort were the seagulls which were shouting very annoyed by our presence. Looking at it, surrounded by perfect blue waters it looked like a fort in The Caribbean, a pirates lair. But we were going to find out that the history of that fort is more gruesome than we anticipated…
Named Mamula after the name of the general who suggested the construction of this fort, along with other fortification placed on the both sides of the entrance of Kotor Bay, it was part of Austro-Hungarian Army plan to prevent the enemy from entering the bay.
During the WWII became a concentration camp being a place for suffering, death and torture. Leaving behind this place of sorrow, we left Lustica heading now South, to the most Southern point of Montenegro, Ada Bojana.
The road we took to Ada Bojana goes along the coastline and it is part of Adriatic Highway showing it most breathtaking features from Budva to Petrovac.The arms of the sea are hungrily stretching towards the sea wanting to sooth their roughness into the sea waters. Early morning mists are lingering above getting tangled in the mountain fingers.
Getting closer to Ulcinj the relief is changing, the mountain remains behind and the coastline starts losing its roughness, Ulcinj it is closer to the Albanian border inhabited by the largest community of Albanians. During the ottoman times, the old city was a lair for pirates which were plundering and attacking ships in the area.
It has the lowest prices in Montenegro but also the dirtiest waters in Montenegro. I love the sea and it saddened me to see all kind of trash floating in the sea waters on the main city beach Mala Beach, I would not have put a finger in that water.
I thought that maybe it is so much garbage in the sea waters due to the fact that the beach was full but when I saw garbage thrown in places when it should not have been poisoning the scenery I realized that is not a problem of full season it is a mater or local mentality and a disrespect towards nature.
Searching for a clean beach, we went even more south to the Longest beach in Montenegro, Velika Plaza. Shallow waters slightly warmer than the one in the North, on the empty section of the beach trash, is lying on the sand and here and there some plastic bags and bottles were floating in the water.I was disappointed and I was thinking how can this be possible, and it was the first time when I begun to see cracks in the beautiful image I had about Montenegro. Luckily our last destination for that day it was Ada Bojana, and by the time we were there I was starving already.
Ada Bojana is an island created by the river delta of Bojana river, It is triangular in shape, made out of derbies and sand carried by the river, bordered on two sides by the river and on the other side bathed by the Sea waters. It is a well know nudist resort but also the beast place to eat the most delicious fish. The fishermen wooden housed were transformed into restaurants. Placed on the river with piers made of wood it are offering the VIP seats for a beautiful sunset.
The restaurant we went was called Knoba Kod Ranka and we staid outside on the terrace feeding the ducks on the river watching the sun going down little by little. The disappointing images from Ulcinj and Velika plaza were erased and I felt being embraced by the golden light.
I felt happiness and I was so grateful. Here I was..on an island I never heard before, a piece of lost heaven. Seeing the sunset..It was not the first one. nor the last one…but it had so much magic in it.It was a golden touch which melted my heart and while my heart was diffused by that golden light I become Ada Bojana and Ada Bojana became me…